Paolo e Laura - 05/2008
Tentare di descrivere il Madagascar, gli usi e costumi, i sapori e gli odori, le luci e le ombre che si alternano in emozionanti giochi di colore, i cieli che si ergono giorno e notte e che sembra poter toccare semplicemente allungando la mano, le sensazioni che porteremo per sempre con noi dopo averlo visitato per sedici giorni, sarebbe dare inevitabilmente una visione ridotta, una sintesi, una semplice interpretazione.
E’ ricco o è povero il Madagascar? Quale personale analisi può portarci a distinguere povertà e ricchezza? I suoi abitanti vestiti di stracci e di polvere, sereni al centro della tempesta della vita, sono poveri, oppure sono ricchi della fecondità che li circonda e li pervade? Questa terra ove la vita è potente e domina la sua ultima frontiera, ove tutto nasce con forza inarrestabile, e muore senza peccato, così gravida di risorse è ricca, oppure è povera perché abitata da gente dotata solo di mescolanze genetiche?
Non ci permettiamo di rispondere a queste domande, di darvi un’idea, di dire cosa sono l’amore e la vita, perché in Madagascar ancora succede quel miracolo nel quale eliminati tutti i pensieri, le opinioni, le idee, rimane la risposta.
E’ in questo contesto che incontriamo Matteo, egli è all’interno della risposta. Non abbiamo opinioni o giudizi, in lui risalta un parallelo con l’Isola Rossa. Tentiamo una spiegazione: Matteo fa la guida.
La guida, per definizione, è un filtro fra noi e l’esperienza, ci rivolgiamo in modo del tutto naturale ad essa in ogni momento…quindi perdiamo il contatto, la realtà prevalente diminuisce di intensità, diventa più “facile”, più “televisiva”…ecco:
Matteo non è questo stereotipo di guida, pur parlando malgascio e francese ed essendo un vahsah, un bianco.
Lembo vivente di quel mondo, di quella risposta che si trova solo lasciando da parte tutto il resto, Matteo ha nell’animo la qualità del camaleonte, fantastico ospite del Madagascar per il quale la nostra guida nutre, senza dirlo, particolare simpatia (ne ha sempre qualcuno in giro).
Matteo, incarnando le contraddizioni appena citate è, senza saperlo, una porta invisibile ed impalpabile, che permette alle nostre sensazioni di non essere addomesticate da un estraneo. La gente locale parla con Matteo come se parlasse con un compaesano, e lui fa lo stesso con noi, si chiede e ci chiede quale decisione prendere in comunione con questa terra. Viaggiando in lungo ed in largo per l’Ile Rouge ci siamo accorti che agli occhi da spettatore di molti turisti incontrati per caso, si era anche noi parte del film, quelle persone stavano vivendo appieno l’esperienza? Chi lo può sapere? Per quanto ci riguarda alla fine, la realtà, la risposta, aveva attraversato almeno per un poco la nostra vita.
Abbiamo detto di Matteo, del suo Madagascar, diciamo “grazie” ad una persona, per noi, stupenda, ed aggiungiamo che l’espressione “My Madagascar” è solo un modo di dire, perché Matteo ed il Madagascar hanno una realtà in comune…viverla o farcela descrivere? A voi la risposta.
Paolo e Laura
Genova
Italia |
Kym Blanchard - 03/2008
If you're at mymadagascar.net, there's no need to sell you on the country; but you have chosen well, and if you take the time to see the whole country you'll experience a world of many unique and diverse wonders. It's a touch of Africa without the political woes, a nature lover's paradise literally, a country of vivid colors - from the land to the people. And finally, spectacular beaches that allow you to frolic peacefully at the edge of the world.
It is very possible to discover the country with the local taxi-brousses; but you need time and patience ( and a lot of both). As an "experienced" traveller, I had planned to do so after a month as a volunteer teaching English in Ambotolampy, and trying a trying experience with a "reputable" travel agency in Antananarivo.
I hired a chauffeur for a week-end to visit the Park Andasibe-Mantadia (about 120 km east of Antananarivo). The agent quoted me one price when I booked the trip; but said it was 100,000AR (about $50.00) more when he arrived with the chauffeur to pick me up. The price was already high for me; but I only had the week-end to do the trip so I decided to splurge. The agent also tried to force a voucher for an additional 207,000AR (roughly $103.00) on me for hotel and meals. The driver for the four hour drive was friendly, but didn't talk much. I thought he didn't speak French well; but found out later he was a university student and spoke very eloquent French, and some English, my native tongue.
After we arrived, he disappeared, and then overslept in the morning; so I had to walk to the park entrance...not a big deal, but.... He was at the park entrace when I finished my morning trek: but when I asked him to take me to the other park entrance (19 km away) after lunch he said he "was only hired to take me tot he hotel," and if I wanted to go, I would have to pay for the extra gas!
When we made the excursion in the afternoon, i also realized he really should have had an SUV (4 x 4), because the path was ancient and abused.
While the trip was amazing and the rain forest spectacular, it's a long story to say that in the end it's the little things that can make or break a trip. Also note that I paid my own hotel and food and it was less than half of what the agent arranged for me at the same hotel.
Three weeks later I found myself ready to head south for four weeks and decided that being held financiallly hostage with a local guide wasn't worth the stress; but it would also drastically change where I would be able to go, and what I would be able to see.
Enter Matteo, who I met by accident, and providence. With Matteo, I was able to request exactly where I wanted to go, and for how long. He was able to recommend other sites to visit as well. He arrived on the day of departure with his well-tuned "quatre-quatre" and a "glacier" full with supplies for a picnic en route to our first stop down south.
Matteo knew the route well and pointed out places of interest along the road. He spoke Malagasy well and was able to negotiate with all the fruit and food vendors we met, giving me a chance to try all I dared to taste.
In the parks we visited, Ranamofana and Isalo, he also had first-hand knowledge of the different circuits.
While I picked most of the hotels from my guide book (and he allowed me to tour a few each time), Matteo was able to suggest places to stay as well. Restaurant-wise, if I wanted more local fare, he had recommendations; but I chose a mix of food from markets and restaurants we discovered along the way.
Matteo paid attention to each detail as if it was his vacation, with careful consideration of my likes and dislikes. "Comme tu veux" was his sincere answer to all my requests.
Overall I felt like I was on vacation with a friend who knew, and was comfortable with, the country and people. I felt safe and trusted that his priority was to ensure that I had a unique, comfortable, and pleasurable journey; and that he wasn't in it to get as much money out of me as possible.
As a solo traveller, I also had the benefit of a companion; but it was very clear that he could be around as little or as much as I required. Undoubtedly, Matteo allowed me to discover "my madagascar".
Kim Blanchard
USA
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